Lamprey pie, made from sea lampreys or European river lampreys, was a favored dish among the wealthy in medieval England. These elongated jawless fishes, known for their parasitic nature, were considered a high-status food and often given as gifts to royalty. The city of Gloucester had a long-standing tradition of presenting a lamprey pie to the monarch at Christmas, a custom that lasted until 183Today, lamprey pie is still served on special occasions such as coronations and jubilees.
The History of Lamprey Consumption
The consumption of lampreys dates back to ancient times. The Romans were known to have eaten lampreys as early as the 1st century AD, considering them a luxurious food. Lampreys gained popularity in medieval Europe as a meaty-tasting fish that could be consumed even on fast days. Lampreys were particularly associated with Christmas, as Christmas Eve was a day of fasting. They were also favored by royalty, with King Henry I reportedly dying from eating too many lampreys while on campaign in Northern France.
The River Severn at Gloucester was a key source of lampreys for the English royalty, and landowners often offered them as gifts to seek favor. Lampreys were an expensive luxury, and commoners had to purchase licenses to eat them. The peak lamprey season is in spring, making them scarce during Christmas.
The Tradition of Lamprey Pie
By the year 1200, it became customary for the city of Gloucester to send a lamprey pie to the English monarch each year. King John even fined the city for failing to provide the pie at Christmas. Lampreys remained expensive and were primarily enjoyed by the wealthy. The custom of sending a lamprey pie to the monarch ended in 1836 due to its cost.
Lamprey pie continued to be a delicacy in England until the early 19th century and was sometimes referred to as politicians' pie. Recipes from that time included seasoning the lampreys with sweet spices, placing them in a pie crust with citron and lemon slices, and baking them with wine and spices. The pie would then be served on bread, with thinly sliced lamprey laid on top.
The Decline and Legacy of Lamprey
In the 19th century, the population of lampreys in English rivers declined, possibly due to the installation of weirs. The lamprey became scarce in the River Severn and the Bristol Channel, and it is now a protected species. Today, lampreys are primarily caught in the River Ouse in Yorkshire for use as fishing bait.
While lamprey consumption declined in England, it remains popular in Scandinavia, the Baltic States, and the Atlantic coast of continental Europe. These regions continue to enjoy lampreys as a delicacy.
The Tradition Continues
Gloucester still presents a lamprey pie to the monarch of the United Kingdom on special occasions. A 20-pound pie was served at the 1953 Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II, sourced from Grimsby. Lampreys from the Great Lakes in North America were used for the 2012 Diamond Jubilee, as British lampreys were not available. For the upcoming Coronation of Charles III and Camilla in 2023, a traditional pie made with pork and decorated with pastry lampreys will be served due to the scarcity of actual lampreys in Britain.
In conclusion
The tradition of lamprey consumption in medieval England and its association with royalty and special occasions have made it a unique and fascinating part of culinary history. While lampreys are no longer as widely consumed, their legacy lives on in the form of lamprey pies served in Gloucester. These pies continue to honor tradition and provide a taste of the past.
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