Chinese smoked ham: a delicacy with unique flavors

Chinese smoked ham, also known as Jinhua ham, is a specialty dry-cured ham that originates from the city of Jinhua in Zhejiang province, China. This ham is highly regarded in Chinese cuisine and is used to flavor various dishes, soups, and stocks. With its rich history and unique production process, Jinhua ham has become a staple in Chinese culinary traditions.

Table of Contents

What is Chinese Smoked Ham Made of?

Jinhua ham is made using the hind legs of a specific breed of pig native to China called the two ends black. These pigs have black hair on their heads and hindquarters with white midsections. They are known for their quick maturation, excellent meat quality, and thin skin.

The production of Jinhua ham begins when the air temperatures drop below 10 °C (50 °F). The process takes around 8 to 10 months to complete and is divided into six stages:

  • Meat preparation: The legs are selected and trimmed of fat, tendons, membranes, and connective tissues. The remaining blood is squeezed out.
  • Salting: The legs are repeatedly rubbed with salt and allowed to absorb it over the span of several days. This process is repeated 5-7 times.
  • Soaking and washing: The legs are soaked in water, scrubbed, and then soaked again.
  • Drying and shaping: The legs are trimmed to the desired shape, dehooved, branded, and hung up to dry in the sun.
  • Ripening: The dried hams are hung in a low-temperature room with controlled humidity for 6-8 months to develop flavors.
  • Post-ripening: The ripened ham is cleaned, coated with vegetable oil, and allowed to further mature for 2-3 months.

It's worth noting that new processing techniques can accelerate production and reduce the time to 1-2 months, depending on adjustments in aging temperature and humidity.

The Cultural Significance of Jinhua Ham

The production technique of Jinhua ham dates back to the Tang dynasty and is believed to have been transmitted to Europe by Marco Polo. It holds a special place in Chinese cuisine, where it is used as an ingredient in various dishes, including the famous buddha jumps over the wall. Jinhua ham is highly praised in Chinese literature and has been prominently featured in novels.

The ideal Jinhua ham should have a shiny and smooth yellow outside, a rounded shape resembling a bamboo leaf, a thin and slender bone, and an abundant layer of fat surrounding dark and red-toned meat. The taste of Jinhua ham is highly salty, umami, and sweet, with a fine texture and a pronounced but pleasant odor. Small amounts of mold on the outside of the ham are considered normal and contribute to its unique flavor.

Chemical Analysis and Flavor Profile

The taste of Jinhua ham comes from its high concentration of free amino acids and nucleotides, particularly glutamic acid and 5'-inosinic acid. These compounds, developed during the long curing process, contribute to the ham's distinct umami taste. Fermentation, facilitated by molds and yeasts present on the ham, also adds to its flavor profile.

The aroma of Jinhua ham is similar to that of dry-cured Iberian hams, with fragrant compounds consisting of aldehydes, sulfur compounds, and branched alkenes. These compounds are derived from the breakdown and rearrangement of amino acids and fatty acids caused by auto-oxidation and fermentation.

The Pesticide Scandal

In 2003, Jinhua ham became the center of a food safety incident in China. Some small producers operated out of season and treated their hams with pesticides to prevent spoilage and insect infestation. This scandal had a negative impact on legitimate ham makers and resulted in a decrease in market demand.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Is Jinhua ham exported to the United States?
  • No, Jinhua ham is not exported to the United States. However, Smithfield ham from Virginia is an excellent substitute and can be found in Chinese grocers and butcher shops.

  • Which regions in China are known for producing cured, smoked ham?
  • Cured, smoked ham is produced all over China, with Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Yunnan provinces being particularly famous for their deep-flavored hams.

Chinese smoked ham, or Jinhua ham, is a delicacy that offers a unique and intense flavor profile. Its rich history, meticulous production process, and cultural significance make it a prized ingredient in Chinese cuisine. Whether used to flavor stews, soups, or enjoyed as part of a cold meat dish, Jinhua ham is a true culinary treasure.

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